Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
